Nestled in the heart of the Indian subcontinent lies a tradition woven into the very fabric of time — Ajrakh printing. This ancient art form, steeped in history and culture, transcends mere cloth. Ajrakh is an exceptional style of textile block-printing originating mainly from Sindh, Pakistan, and the village of Ajrakhpur located in the neighbouring Kutch district of India. Textiles such as shawls or garments adorned with Ajrakh showcase distinctive designs and motifs created through block printing techniques using stamps, serving as a significant symbol of Sindhi culture and heritage.
History Of ‘Ajrakh’ Print:
Ajrakh is a craft that has endured the test of time for centuries. Originating from the land of the Indus Valley Civilization, Ajrakh finds its roots in the arid lands of Sindh.
Prof John Varghese, School of Fashion, World University of Design, Sonipat said, “The term ‘Ajrakh’ originates from the Arabic word ‘Azrak,’ meaning azure or blue, symbolizing the predominant colour derived from Indigo dyes, representing the cosmos and the divine. These motifs have been discovered on carvings in Mohenjodaro, dating back to the Indus Valley Civilization of 3000 BC. The presence of Ajrakh fabric from Gujarat in Al-Fostat, near old Cairo in Egypt, speaks volumes about the popularity and the extensive routes these textiles traversed.”
Historically, Ajrakh motifs drew inspiration from the patterns and hues found in nature and on architectural marvels of the regions around the Indus.
“Traditional designs showcase geometric patterns and intricate floral motifs, resonating with the rich tapestry of Indian culture and heritage. These motifs, handed down through generations, narrate stories of fertility, protection, and unity, forging a connection between the wearer and their ancestors,” he added.
How Ajrakh Block Printing Is Done:
Amidst a world embracing fast fashion and mass production, Ajrakh printing stands as a testament to the beauty of slow craftsmanship and sustainable practices. Each piece is a labour of love, requiring days, if not weeks, to complete.
Explaining the process of Ajrakh Block printing, Prof John Varghese said, “The process of Ajrakh block printing comprises 12-14 steps, including hand-carving the block in the desired motif, cloth preparation, application of natural dyes like Indigo and Madder, imprinting resist areas, and repeated washing and drying. The outcome is not merely a garment but a masterpiece, infused with the soul of its creator and the essence of centuries past.”
In addition, Designer Roma Jain said, “Ajrakh designs are easily recognisable by their bold geometric repeats, in combinations of centre field and border designs. These symmetrical patterns are printed and dyed in natural red and black, with the white cloth resisted on a dark indigo blue background. Features of good ajrakh saree are Geometrical motifs such as intricate lines, patterns to elaborate shapes, and nature-inspired designs such as peacocks, flowers, and trees.”
Things To Keep In Mind Before Buying A Pure Ajrakh Piece:
Ajrakh is produced mainly in 3 places, namely Kutch in Gujarat, Barmer in Rajasthan and Sindh in Pakistan. When buying a pure Ajrakh piece, there are several key things to look for to ensure authenticity and quality as suggested by Balkrishna Namdev Kapse, Founder of Kapse Paithani.
Pay attention to the fabric:
Examine the fabric closely to ensure it is made from high-quality natural fibers like cotton or silk. The texture should feel soft and smooth to the touch, with a slight sheen that indicates a well-crafted piece. Traditionally, Ajrakh printing is done on cotton. This allows the natural dyes to breathe into the fabric, resulting in soft, comfortable, and breathable clothes.
Authentic natural dyes only:
One of the defining characteristics of pure Ajrakh lies in its natural dyes.The colours used should be vibrant and rich, typically achieved through natural dyes extracted from plants and minerals.
Dual printing:
Check for intricate and detailed patterns that are characteristic of Ajrakh printing, such as geometric designs and traditional motifs like peacocks, flowers, and trees. Ajrakh clothes are printed on both sides. The double-sided characteristic is a hallmark of genuine Ajrakh pieces and is something you must check before purchasing. Also inspect the reverse side of the fabric for uniformity in the printing, as authentic Ajrakh pieces are block-printed on both sides using wooden blocks carved by skilled artisans.
Tell-tale signs of hand-craftsmanship:
Look for the tell-tale signs of hand-craftsmanship, such as slight variations in the printing that add to the charm and uniqueness of each piece. Avoid mass-produced items that lack these imperfections, as they may not be genuine Ajrakh prints.
Mind the cost:
Ajrakh’s handcrafted nature and use of natural materials come at a cost. While these are not overly expensive, unrealistically low prices indicate low quality. By paying attention to these details, you can ensure you are purchasing a high-quality and authentic Ajrakh piece that showcases the rich tradition and artistry of this ancient craft.